Helen Berkun

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CAPRI

Helen Berkun

As many of you who follow my social media adventures know, I recently, well, exactly 7 days ago, came back from the magical Amalfi Coast!

I have to tell you, this has been my dream trip for years. I've been to the French Riviera and the Greek Islands, some cities in Croatia and even Italy itself, but I've never been and always dreamt of the Amalfi Coast.

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As most former USSR immigrants I've lived in Italy before and hold this county very near and dear to my heart. I always feel home when I go back and I always feel this urge to go back to Italy over and over again.

Many of you have messaged me about my trip to Capri + Positano so I wanted to give you a break down of what to do, where to eat, what to see and what to drink! So without further adieu...

CAPRI

Transportation

You can fly into two different cities, Naples or Rome. Tickets to Naples were insanely expensive from Chicago, so we flew into Rome which was also a direct flight. Upon arrival I had booked a private driver Michele (Mee-Kay-Lee) who can assist with private drives throughout your entire Amalfi experience. The direct drive from Rome to Sorrento (where you take a ferry to Capri is about 3 to 4 hours depending on traffic. Same from Rome to any mainland of the Amalfi Coast. Traffic can be quite intense so plan accordingly.

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Michele came straight to the airport in Rome and picked us up  in a Mercedes S550. We decided to stop in Pompeii on the way to Sorrento, which if you wanted to stop plan on spending about two hours for lunch and loads of history! This entire trip costs 650EUR, if you want to save a little an e-class Mercedes is 100EUR cheaper. If you have a larger group Michele has a slew of Mercedes cars, trucks, vans and buses. All prices are pretty standard and average from all my research. Michele came highly recommended by a friend who often travels to Amalfi plus we adored him, so I also highly recommend him. If you would like to get his info please feel free to message me and I will put you in touch!

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Restaurants

Some of the best and my favorite food is in Capri. You're right on the water so the fish is as fresh as it gets, the pasta is perfectly al dente and because of the crazy elevations and the amount of walking you do...well, eating and not gaining is a thing here!

  • Da Paulino -  Known as the "restaurant to the stars" this place is a hidden gem, and by hidden I mean literally if you don't know you'll never find it. Make sure you make ressies and enjoy dining under 50 lemon trees!

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  • Aurora - This is one of those see and be scene restaurants in Capri. You don't have the sea view but the food is incredible and you're sure to rub shoulders with a celeb or two. It's actually not just about that whole 'who's who of who cares' thing but Aurora is one of the oldest restaurants in Capri and the food is...PERFECTO! Ressies a MUST!
  • Da Giorgio - Has one of the most magnificent views! The sunsets are EVERYTHING and the food is devine! A must if you're in Capri!
  • La Fontelina - the most exclusive beach club on the island, and an amazing place for lunch. We loved the rosé here and their seafood salad....mmmmm. You can get a bed or a beach chair and chill all day!

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  • Al piccolo Bar - the best spot for VIP breakfast, happy hour, or late night cocktails in the Piazzetta. It's the oldest bar in Capri and you will love all the people watching at night. Make sure to get the Capri (limoncello) Spritz! It's my favorite!
  • Buonocore Gelateria - There's always a line here, and yes there is gelato on every corner, but not like this one. I promise you! It's well worth the wait :)

Things to Do

 

  • Shopping - There is a boutique of every and all major designers on the island. Think Hermés, Chanel, Gucci, Miu Miu, Parada and anything and everything under the sun. I especially loved all the sunglasses stores, they are incredible and you can really find some one of a kind sunnies and runway shades on the island. I also highly recommend going to a local perfumery, Capri makes some of the most phenomenal custom scents. Pottery and housewares is also incredible, but I recommend getting those pieces on Anacapri, it's much cheaper and almost all boutiques ship directly to your home.

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  • Sailing - Boating, yachting, sailing, whatever tickles your pickle is a must. The island is so gorgeous from a boat and you absolutely have to see all the grottos. We rented our own boat because my husband has a captains license (which you don't really need,) you can also easily charter a boat with a captain, relax, unwind and drink procecco as you take in all the beautiful scenery. I highly recommend visiting a little store and picking up cheeses, meats, sardines, olives, tomatoes, lemons and breads...along with the obvious drink of choice. It's amazing to snack on the boat and the food is like no other. If you prefer to go out to lunch, you can pull up to places like La Fontelina or other beach club/restaurants and eat. They also often have tenders that grab you once you put the anchor in.

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  • Anacapri - The island is actually divided into two sections: Capri and Anacapri. Anacapri sits at the tip of the island and you can certainly take a taxi there, however not according to my hubby. We actually ended up walking the entire 1,000 feet up and almost 1,000  steepest steps I've ever climbed. However I'm so glad we did it. It was an incredible experience and the views like no other. Once we got to the top I drank a beer, ate bread and enjoyed the best bucket of fried anchovies!!! You must check out L'Angolo Del Gusto, one of the best restaurants in Anacapri.  Owner Fernando is a cutie and has a parrot sitting down the street that's perfect for photo ops!

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  • J.K. Place Capri - This perfect mansion like hotel sits a top a mountain overlooking the sea and the famed Marina Grande. It's a super chill place and amazing for lunch. It's very quiet, chill and you have a front row seat to some of the best yachts in Capri. You can also walk right down to the gorgeous beach.

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  • Hotel Luna - Another great spot for a little lunch or a drink. This gorgeous hotel has incredible views of the Faraglioni rocks.Immersed in gardens filled in bougainvillea and pomegranate trees. The hotel also has a gorgeous rooftop for an aperitif or a late night drink!

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Where to Stay

  • Hotel La Palma - One of my favorite hotels in Capri is definitely La Palma and no, I am not paid to say this. It's located in the most perfect location, think in the middle of all the nightlife and shopping, just a hip and a hop away from the main Piazza and right next to Buonumore Gelateria. The rooms are gorgeous, think everything Capri, blues, yellows and loads of whites. The building is one of the oldest buildings and the hotel itself is one of the first ones on the island. Of course it's been renovated, so don't worry.  It's also very modern. We loved the service.  The manager Giacomo Sarnataro couldn't have been more pleasant and the hotel hosted a private welcoming/anniversary dinner filled with a seven course menu for hubby and I.  It was truly incredible. We loved the staff, especially our bar tender Mauricio who is from Ischia (our next Italian destination), and who makes possibly the world's greatest Capri Spritz and the meanest double espresso I've ever had. I can't say enough wonderful things about the hotel, the service and everything in between. They completely took care of everything for us, so much that we really felt at home (well probably even better, since we had nothing to do but eat, drink and hang)!

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*Video editing by Madeline Doherty